Crochet Patterns / July 23, 2021

Chasing Summer Light – [FREE] Beginner Tank with Thick Straps to Hide your Bra Straps! [Size-Inclusive Crochet Pattern]

Hi everyone!

 

In May I published the Chasing Summer Tank and it became one of my post popular pattern releases yet! After seeing how much you all loved that design, I knew I had to make another version for you. This month I’m sharing a fingering weight version of the same top, called Chasing Summer Light! I asked you all on Instagram what your thoughts were in regards to naming this lighter weight version, and many of you suggested “Chasing Summer Light” as a play on the fact that it’s a lighter weight version with dual meaning behind this name. Great idea!

Before we begin, here are some quick links for you:

  • Find the PDF version on Ravelry here, and on my website here.
  • Add your finished project and view other completed projects on Ravelry here.
  • Use the pattern hashtag #ChasingSummerLight on Instagram to show off your makes! Be sure to check out the original hashtag, #ChasingSummerTank, too!
  • Shop WeCrochet Twill here!
  • View the original Chasing Summer Tank here.
  • Shop my WeCrochet exclusive summer pattern bundle here (5 patterns for $9.99)
  • For any questions about this pattern, please email knitsnknotswpg@gmail.com and I’ll get back to you asap!

Preorder my book – Modern Crochet Sweaters: 20 Chic Designs for Everyday Wear – here!

If you want to be notified of all new pattern releases (and get exclusive discounts on all new paid patterns), sign up below!

 

 

This post contains affiliate links. This means, should you make a purchase, I will receive a small portion of the sale at no extra cost to you. All opinions are my own. View my Privacy + Disclosures Policy here. This post is sponsored by We Crochet.

 

About

You all know how much I love crocheting summer pieces, and this light, summer-friendly top checks all my boxes! It has all the elements that you loved about the original version (which is also free), plus some fun, extra details I know you’ll love. In this version, there are two strap options: thick and thicker. The only thing missing from the original pattern was the ability to hide your bra straps, so with this version I got ya covered!

Chasing Summer Light is a fingering weight version of the Chasing Summer Tank (May 2021). Like the original version, this pattern is an extremely easy-to-crochet summer tank top that features vertical stitching but has thick straps to hide any bra straps. The stand-out feature of this piece is the thoughtful shaping around the chest which provides an incredible fit on any size. There are adjustable elements sprinkled throughout the pattern – see some modification ideas below to create a top that perfectly suits your personal style. The beauty of the Chasing Summer Tank and Chasing Summer Light is the variety of unique pieces that can be created from each of these patterns simply by working some basic modifications.

Except for the straps which are worked in the single crochet stitch, most of this top is worked in the double crochet stitch, making it a breeze to complete in a weekend (or even a day if you’re ambitious). The sideways construction creates the appearance of vertical lines running throughout the garment, creating a flattering fit and allowing the fabric to lay nicely on your body during wear without looking bulky. With your bra straps perfectly hidden, you can wear your Chasing Summer Light with comfort and confidence all season long.

 

Sizing

This pattern is written in 9 sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) to fit bust sizes 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46) (48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62)“. If you’re unsure which size you fall under, you can check out this sizing chart. For this pattern, if you’re in between sizes, size up.

See sizing chart below.

Materials

Yarn: Fingering–WeCrochet Twill in Horchata Heather

  • 100% Superwash Merino (category #1)
  • 183yds [167 m] per 1.76-oz [50 g] skein
  • Only $6.99 per skein
  • Find this yarn on crochet.com or visit yarnsub.com to find comparable substitutes.

Yarn Substitution Notes: Substitute WeCrochet Twill with any similar, fingering weight yarn. Most fibers should work fine in place of Twill, however, note that this is a form-fitting top with negative ease, so it is recommended you opt for an animal fiber with some bounce and memory and avoid stretch-less plant-based fibers like cotton or linen. This will allow your top to stay taught to your body during wear without feeling restricting.
If you want to use cotton or other stretch-less fibers, you may want to work additional rows on your back panel to make a looser top; this will allow your chosen fiber to drape nicely.

A note on yarn weight: You can also choose a totally different yarn weight altogether and follow the pattern as it’s written, making sure to work the front panels to their specified width! Just make sure to take note of the measurements provided within the pattern to ensure your top will have a fit that is similar to the sample shown.

Yardage: 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) (5, 6, 7, 7) balls of WeCrochet Twill or 350 (450, 545, 650, 725) (825, 925, 1100, 1250) yds [321 (412, 499, 595, 663) (755, 846, 1006, 1144) m] of a similar fingering weight yarn.

Hook: Size U.S. C/2 (2.75 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge (I love this set)

Notions: Tapestry needle, several locking stitch markers

 

Gauge

Gauge: 3 x 3″ [8 x 8 cm] = 19 sts and 10 rows in Double Crochet

 

Abbreviations (U.S. Terms)

ch: chain

dc: double crochet

dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together

FDC: foundation double crochet

hdc: half double crochet

PM: place marker

rep: repeat

sc: single crochet

sk: skip

sl st: slip stitch

st(s): stitch(es)

 

Pattern Notes

Sizing: This tank top is written in nine sizes as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). Make sure to follow the numbers for your size only.

Stitch Counts: Stitch counts are listed after each row. If no stitch count is given, there has been no change since the previous row. If only one number is provided, it applies to all sizes.

Reversible: There is no right side or wrong side; both sides are identical. You choose which side to wear as the “right side.”

Seaming: When seaming your garment, make sure to keep all seams loose and do not pull tight in order to maintain some stretch, otherwise this seam will pucker during wear.

Turning Chain: The turning does not count as a stitch.

Construction: The front of this top is worked in two identical pieces that get seamed together along the center-front. After seaming these pieces together, the back panel is worked directly onto your front piece until reaching your desired circumference. You can follow the number of rows as instructed on the back piece to achieve the dimensions in the chart, or you can work fewer (or more) rows along the back in order to achieve your desired amount of ease.

 

Modification Suggestions

To make a top of any length: For a longer or shorter top, work a longer or shorter foundation chain when beginning the front panels. Work an identical stitch adjustment when beginning the back panel.

To make a top in any yarn weight: Using the corresponding hook to your chosen yarn, work a foundation chain that equals your approximate desired length from the center of the breast to the bottom of your tank top. Then, follow the pattern as it’s written, and stop working Row 2 repeats once your front panel equals the width provided in the chart for your size. Then, work the back panel until reaching your desired circumference.

To make a top with a different amount of ease (positive or negative): Instead of sizing up or sizing down, choose to follow the size that is true to your actual size. Follow the instructions for the front panel as they are written. Then, adjust the number of repeats when working the back panel in order to adjust your amount of ease. For more negative ease, work fewer Row 2 reps until reaching your desired circumference. For more positive ease, work more Row 2 reps until reaching your desired circumference.

Schematics

 

Measurements

This chart shows the finished garment measurements. This top is designed to be worn with approximately 4 to 6 inches [10–15 cm] of negative ease. Find the finished bust measurement in this chart and choose a size that is 4 to 6 inches [10-15 cm] smaller than your actual bust measurement. For reference, the model has a 34-inch [86-cm] bust and is wearing a size small with a finished garment bust measurement of 28 inches [71 cm] with 6 inches [15 cm] of negative ease.
If between sizes, size up.
Note: To adjust the amount of ease, when choosing a size, it’s best to choose your true size and then adjust the ease by working additional or fewer rows to the back panel, rather than sizing up or down.

 


PATTERN

 

FRONT PANEL (Make 2)

Leaving a long tail for seaming, FDC 44 (48, 50, 52, 54) (56, 58, 64, 68).
For a longer (or shorter) tank top than sample shown, work more (or fewer) sts here.

Row 1 (Set-Up Row): Ch 2, dc in each st to end of row, work 5 dc in end of last st (see Fig. 1 below), PM in 3rd dc of this 5-dc cluster, continue working in the same direction down your foundation chain, work 44 (48, 50, 52, 54) (56, 58, 64, 68) dc to end of row, turn. [93 (101, 105, 109, 113) (117, 121, 133, 141) dc]

Fig. 1 – This image shows where to work the 5 dc.

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in each st to marked st, work 5 dc in marked st, PM in 3rd dc of this 5-dc cluster, continue dc in each st to end of row. [97 (105, 109, 113, 117) (121, 125, 137, 145) dc]

Rep last row 7 (9, 11, 12, 13) (14, 15, 17, 18) more times. (Each Row 2 rep increases your stitch count by 4.)

Next Row (scroll to end of pattern for supplementary photos): Ch 2, dc in each st until there are 2 sts left unworked before the center marker, place marker into last dc just worked, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st into center marked st, remove this center marker, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, place marker in this dc, dc in each st to end of row.

Your strap will be crocheted in between these two new markers.

At this point, your piece should measure approximately 6.25 (7.5, 8.75, 9.25, 10) (10.5, 11, 12.25, 13)” [16 (19, 22, 23, 25) (27, 28, 31, 33) cm] in width. You should finish with 125 (141, 153, 161, 169) (177, 185, 205, 217) sts in your final row.

 

For thicker straps than shown in the photo, work the following row before proceeding (this will add one more row to your panel and an additional 6 sts to your strap width):

Optional Row for Thicker Straps: Ch 2, dc in each st until there are 2 sts left unworked before your first marker, place new marker into last dc just worked, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st into marked st, remove this marker, sl st into each st across until reaching next marker, sl st into marked st, remove this marker, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, place new marker into this dc, dc in each st to end of row.

 

Fasten off, leaving a 20” [51 cm] tail for seaming your front panels together.

Rep all instructions for an identical panel, but do not fasten off after completing your second panel. Place a stitch marker in this active loop and proceed to Seaming Your Front Panels Together. You will come back to this loop to work the Back Panel.

 

SEAMING THE FRONT PANELS

Lay both of your panels flat with the same side facing you and the long tail you left after finishing the first panel in the center. You will use this tail to seam your pieces together.

With a tapestry needle and your long tail, seam your panels together using the whip stitch or seaming method of your choice. Stop seaming once you reach the approximate length of your initial foundation chain. The height at which you stop seaming is what determines your neckline depth. (In the sample shown, I stopped at approximately 1” [2.5 cm] shorter than the initial foundation chain.) Do not weave in this end yet, you will come back to it once your top is seamed together in case you need to make any adjustments to this neckline.

 

BACK PANEL

Return to the live loop from your second front panel and insert your hook to continue crocheting.

Row 1: Ch 2, dc in next 43 (47, 49, 51, 53) (55, 57, 63, 67) sts, dc2tog, turn. [44 (48, 50, 52, 54) (56, 58, 64, 68) dc]

Note: If you adjusted your front panel foundation chain, adjust this number of back panel stitches by the same amount. For example, if you worked 10 additional foundation double crochets, add 10 double crochets to this Row 1 stitch count.

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in each st to end of row, turn.

Rep Row 2 until you have worked a total of 37 (42, 48, 57, 66) (76, 85, 90, 100) rows across your back panel.

Next Row (XS, L and 3X): Ch 2, dc in each st to last st, work 2 dc in last st.

Next Row (S, M, XL, 2X, 4X and 5X): Ch 2, work 2 dc in first st, dc in each st to end of row.

Your back panel width should measure approximately 11.5 (13, 14.5, 17.5, 20) (23, 26, 27.5, 30)” [29 (33, 37, 44, 51) (58, 66, 70, 76) cm].

Fasten off, leaving a 20” [51 cm] tail for seaming panels together.

Fig. 2 – Your work should look like this once you have completed the back panel and are ready to seam your top together.

 

 

SEAMING YOUR TANK TOP

Note: To double-check your fit before seaming, you can pin your top into a tube with locking stitch markers and try it on. To do so, bring the last back panel row together with your front panel edge. Pin these stitches together lengthwise. Try on your top before seaming it closed and adjust the number of rows on your back panel if needed. If your top is too loose, rip out a few rows; if your top is too tight, work additional Row 2 reps until reaching your desired circumference.

With a tapestry needle and the long tail, seam your panels together using the whip stitch or seaming method of your choice. Weave in ends.

Fig. 3 – Your work should look something like this once seamed together. The two markers at the peak of each cup designate where the straps will be attached.

 

BOTTOM FINISHING ROW

Next, you will work a row of single crochet along the bottom edge for a neater finish.

Determine which side of your tank top you would like to be the right side. With this right side facing, join yarn somewhere on the side of your tank top to the bottom edge with a sl st, ch 1, work 2 sc for every dc row-end until reaching your starting point, sl st into first sc to join, fasten off, weave in ends.

STRAPS

With the front side facing (right or wrong side does not matter at this point), starting with either strap, join new yarn to the right-most marker with a sl st.
(Left-handed crocheters: join yarn to the left-most marker.)

Row 1: Ch 1, sc into this first marked st, sc into each st up to (and including) opposite marked st, turn. [7 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1, sc into each st across, turn.

Rep Row 2 until reaching your desired strap length. Once satisfied, fasten off, leaving 10” [25 cm] tail for seaming the strap to your tank top. Rep for second strap. For reference, the straps on my sample shown are approximately 14” [36 cm] long.

ATTACHING THE STRAPS

Lay your tank top flat with the back side facing you. Pin your straps in place using locking stitch markers (or scrap yarn) to your desired placement. Be careful not to twist your straps when pinning. Try on your top with the straps pinned in place to make sure you are happy with the placement before permanently attaching them.

Tip: If you are concerned about bra straps showing through, try on the bra you intend to wear with this tank top and pin your tank top straps in place, being sure to cover the bra straps. (I had someone help me by placing a locking stitch marker on the back of my tank top along the top edge, marking the location of each bra strap so I knew exactly where to attach my tank top straps in order to perfectly hide them.)

Once satisfied with the strap placement, seam in place to the back of your tank top with a tapestry needle and your 10” [25 cm] tail using the whip stitch or seaming method of your choice.

 

Adjusting Neckline Depth

At this point, you can also adjust your center-front seam to your desired height, now that you can see how the tank top lays on your body. Weave in all ends.

 

Blocking

If desired, lightly block your tank top to the dimensions on page 5. Note that steam blocking is recommended since the nature of the curved front panels will not lay perfectly flat when wet-blocking.

 

Optional – To add a finishing row or thicken your straps after your top is complete: There are three openings onto which you could crochet a border: the center head opening, and two arm openings. Simply join yarn with a slip stitch to one of the inner corners on the back side of your tank top where the strap meets the top edge (with right side facing), ch 1, sc evenly around until reaching your first stitch, sl st into this stitch to join, then fasten off. Rep for remaining two openings.

 


 

SUPPLEMENTARY PHOTOS

This image shows 2 sts remaining unworked before center marker (pink). The first green marker will be placed into this last dc just worked.
This image shows the slip stitch being worked into the center marker. The original pink center-marker can now be removed.
This image shows the placement of the second green marker, symmetrical to the first. The top of your panel should appear flat.

 

#ChasingSummerLight

That’s it! Hope you love your new tank top. The Chasing Summer collection is one of my favourite design styles that I’ve made in a long time. I have a few more in mind that I plan on adding, too! 🙂

If you’d like an easy-to-read printable PDF, find it here on my website or here on Ravelry.

If you love warm-weather crochet, check out my post here which includes 21 lightweight spring pieces!

Here are some other free patterns you might like – the original Chasing Summer Tank, Tyndall Top, Goldstone Bralette, Linden Cardigan, and the Teulon Tank!

I can’t wait to see your WIPs! Make sure to tag me @knitsnknotswpg and use the pattern hashtag #ChasingSummerLight so that everyone can see your projects!

Happy crocheting,

xx

Janine

 

Preorder my book – Modern Crochet Sweaters: 20 Chic Designs for Everyday Wear – here!

Share:

Janine Myska

Janine is a knit + crochet indie designer and blogger from Winnipeg, Canada.