Timber Lodge – Crochet Pattern for Oversized Striped Pullover (from my book: Modern Crochet Sweaters)
Hi all!
This post includes everything you need to know about the Timber Lodge Pullover, a size-inclusive crochet pattern for a slouchy, vintage-inspired sweater with bold striping.
The Timber Lodge Pullover is from my book Modern Crochet Sweaters: 20 Chic Designs for Everyday Wear. This book includes 20 size-inclusive sweater patterns using a variety of techniques and construction methods to ensure there is something of value for every skill level. Each pattern is written in 9 sizes from XS to 5XL and each size has been thoroughly tested! We had over 500+ crochet pattern testers for this book to make sure that each size fits its intended wearer in a way that makes them feel beautiful. You can buy this book with confidence, knowing that each pattern was written for you and your unique body measurements.
Before we begin, here are some quick links for you:
- Find the PDF version on Ravelry here, on Etsy here, and on my website here.
- Add your finished project and view other completed projects on Ravelry here.
- Use the pattern hashtag #TimberLodgePullover on Instagram to show off your makes! Be sure to check out the book hashtag, #ModernCrochetSweaters, too!
- Unfortunately, the recommended yarn, WeCrochet Paragon, has been discontinued. But don’t worry, there are a TON of great options below for you to choose from! Be sure to scroll down to see other great yarn alternatives, including Lion Brand Truboo!
- Shop my book on Amazon (US) here.
- Shop my book on Amazon (CA) here.
- Shop my book on other platforms outside of North America here.
- Read about my experience getting a book deal here!
- Get a signed copy here!
- For any questions about this pattern, please email knitsnknotswpg@gmail.com and I’ll get back to you asap!
Order my book – Modern Crochet Sweaters: 20 Chic Designs for Everyday Wear – here!
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About Timber Lodge
The inspiration for Timber Lodge came from a 1970s heirloom blanket to create a whimsical, vintage-inspired sweater. Featuring an oversized fit, modified drop-shoulder sleeves and a combination of bold striping, you’ll love the laid-back feel of this sweater and the way it gently contours to your body.
Crochet in the 1970s often consisted of bright colors, bold patterns and simple shapes. With this in mind, I paired some bold striping with a shade of mustard often seen in clothing at this time, all on a natural, cream background. In keeping with the ’70s theme, I tried to accentuate the look of distinct crochet rows, the structure of the individual stitches further emphasized at each color transition. Intended to look like a vintage piece that has been passed down in the family, I hope Timber Lodge sparks a feeling of comfort, familiarity and nostalgia, and maybe you can pass it down to the next generation, like a true heirloom piece.
Getting Started: the Timber Lodge Pullover
Yarn: Sport—Sample uses WeCrochet Paragon Sport (discontinued) in White (Main Color), Black (Accent Color A), Turmeric (Accent Color B)
- 50% fine Merino wool, 25% baby alpaca, 25% mulberry silk
- 123 yds [117 m] per 1.8-oz [50-g] ball
- Scroll down or see this list here for comparable substitutes!
Substitute WeCrochet Paragon Sport with any similar sport weight, category #2 yarn that matches gauge. This particular yarn is bouncy from the wool, with a slight sheen and a very prominent twist. Any sport weight yarn can be used in place of Paragon and still produce a beautiful sweater that you’ll love to wear. Some testers also matched gauge with fingering weight (category #1) yarns and DK weight (category #3) yarns.
Note: Some budget-friendly alternatives include (affiliate links): WeCrochet Swish DK, WeCrochet Brava Sport, WeCrochet Shine Sport, WeCrochet Galileo, Lion Brand Coboo, Lion Brand Truboo, Yarn Bee Must Be Merino, Premier Cotton Fair, Scheepjes Stone Washed. See the yarn substitute list below for a more comprehensive list of alternatives!
For this sweater, I calculated the yardage for both a 3-tone version as shown, as well as a solid colored version in case you’d prefer to use only one color and omit the striping.
Yardage (3-tone):
- Main Color: 8 (9, 9, 10, 11) (12, 13, 14, 14) balls or 900 (1000, 1075, 1200, 1300) (1450, 1550, 1625, 1700) yds [823 (915, 983, 1098, 1189) (1326, 1418, 1486, 1555) m]
- Accent Color A: 7 (7, 7, 8, 9) (9, 9, 9, 10) balls or 775 (800, 850, 925, 975) (1000, 1050, 1100, 1150) yds [709 (732, 778, 846, 892) (915, 961, 1006, 1052) m]
- Accent Color B: 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) (3, 3, 4, 4) balls or 225 (250, 275, 300, 325) (350, 375, 400, 425) yds [206 (229, 252, 275, 298) (321, 343, 366, 389) m]
—
Yardage (solid color): 16 (17, 18, 20, 22) (23, 25, 26, 27) balls or
1900 (2050, 2200, 2425, 2600) (2800, 2975, 3125, 3275) yds
[1738 (1875, 2012, 2218, 2378) (2561, 2721, 2858, 2995) m]
Hook: Size U.S. E/4 (3.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions: Tapestry needle, several locking stitch markers
Gauge: 4 x 4″ [10 x 10 cm] = 18 sts and 15 rows in half double crochet
Getting Started: Knowing Your Measurements
This book uses the Craft Yarn Council (CYC) to determine sizing. The CYC is the industry standard when it comes to knit and crochet sizing. While you will be able to produce a beautiful sweater by following the written patterns, I also like to include customization tips throughout each pattern so that you can adjust your garment based on your unique body measurements; such as shortening or lengthening a sleeve, or adjusting for a larger upper arm than written for your size. This way, you can modify the pattern with confidence, if needed. For example, when making garments for myself, I usually need to shorten tops or sweaters because I have a short torso. My hips also fall under a different size than my bust. Not everyone fits perfectly into these sizing standards; they are simply averages, not set-in-stone numbers.
Understanding how your body deviates from the CYC standard measurements gives you the ability to tailor a sweater to perfectly fit you, rather than feel disappointed that your body doesn’t fit into the sizing standards. I recommend that you measure the largest part of your bust and then refer to the CYC website (click here) to find out which size you would fall under. Then, look at the other measurements that are included for your size, and see which of these measurements deviate from your actual body measurements. Knowledge is power, and once you understand how your body deviates from the CYC standards, you will be able to anticipate this deviation and assume it translates through most patterns. For example, if your upper arm circumference is slightly larger than the CYC sizing chart reads, then you can expect you may have to ignore a few decrease rows when working the sleeves of your next sweater, or even follow the sleeve instructions for the next size up, if possible.
Customization Ideas + Tips When Crocheting This Pullover
Tips
- Sizing: This sweater is written in nine sizes as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). Make sure to follow the numbers for your size only. Make sure to follow the numbers for your size only. All sizing info can be found in the book or on Page 5 of the PDF pattern.
- Stitch Counts: Stitch counts are listed after each row/rnd. If no stitch count is given, there has been no change since the previous row/rnd. If only one number is provided, it applies to all sizes.
- Reversible: You choose which side to wear as the “right side.”
- Seaming: When seaming your garment, make sure to keep all seams loose and do not pull tight in order to maintain some stretch, otherwise this seam will pucker during wear.
- Turning Chain: The turning chain does not count as a stitch.
- Right-handed vs Left-handed Crocheters: The pattern is written with right-handed crocheters in mind (those who hold their hook in their right hand and crochet each row toward the left). If you are a left-handed crocheter, any instructions referring to the “right-hand side” or “left-hand side” should be reversed.
- Changing Colors: When working the last stitch of the row in an old color, work the last stitch as usual, but use the new color to do your final yarn over and pull through to close the stitch. Then, work the slip stitch join and the turning chain in the new colour. Cut the old color and continue stitching with the new color.
- Construction: This sweater is worked in three pieces: one body and two identical sleeves. There is very little seaming in this sweater because each piece is worked in joined rounds. The body is worked in one piece from the bottom up, then splits to work the front and back and create space for the sleeves. The sleeves are worked from the bottom up in joined rounds and seamed to the body. Last, ribbing is worked along the neckline to match the ribbed bottom hem and sleeve cuffs.
Customization Ideas
- To add length: To add length, simply work the body as instructed until you have worked past the final stripe and completed Rnd 61. Then, work Rnd 2 reps with your Main Color until you are satisfied with the length from the underarm to the bottom of your sweater. Next, you will work the front/back split. In other words, you are keeping the colorwork the same, then adding rows to the top main color portion before splitting for the sleeves.
- To shorten your sweater, you can remove rows from any given section before the front/back split.
- For a lighter, summer version: Try matching gauge with a fingering weight yarn. The resulting sweater will have the same measurements, but will be much more airy and lightweight.
- To adjust the width of your ribbing:
- For taller ribbing, work a longer beginning chain when starting your ribbing.
- For shorter ribbing, work a shorter beginning chain when starting your ribbing.
- For a custom colour-blocked sweater: Simply change colours whenever you would like the colour changes to appear, keeping this tip in mind:
- When working the last stitch of the row in an old color, work the last stitch as usual, but use the new color to do your final yarn over and pull through to close the stitch. Then, work the slip stitch join and the turning chain in the new colour. Cut the old color and continue stitching with the new color.
- For tighter (looser) sleeves: If you need tighter or looser sleeves than written for your size, simply eliminate (or add) increase rounds as you see fit! The exact round numbers are written out for you, but you can adjust these as desired. Keep track of any modifications you make to your first sleeve so that you can easily make the same modification to your second sleeve.
- For longer (or shorter) sleeves: For longer or shorter sleeve than written for your size, simply add (or subtract) non-increase rnds as you see fit. Keep track of any modifications you make to your first sleeve so that you can easily make the same modification to your second sleeve.
Yarn Substitutions
The yarn used in my sample is a 50% fine Merino wool, 25% baby alpaca, 25% mulberry silk blend, however you are free to use any fiber content that you like for your own version! Listed below you will see a variety of yarns that will work just fine in place of WeCrochet Paragon Sport, so long as you match gauge. They are not necessarily the same fiber content as Paragon, but the same weight class. Always swatch before beginning so you can be sure your chosen yarn creates a fabric you love!
Substitute WeCrochet Paragon Sport with any similar sport weight, category #2 yarn that matches gauge. This particular yarn is bouncy from the wool, with a slight sheen and a very prominent twist. Paragon is a more luxurious fiber, and it can get a bit pricy to make a full garment with it. Any sport weight yarn can be used in place of Paragon and still produce a beautiful sweater that you’ll love to wear. Some testers also matched with DK, category #3 yarns.
Since Paragon Sport has been discontinued since the book’s publication, visit www.yarnsub.com and type “Knit Picks Paragon Sport” into the search box to find a suitable alternative, or read the list of tested alternatives below. On the Yarn Sub website, you will find hundreds of yarns with similar properties and you are bound to find a brand that is accessible to you. The YarnSub website is an incredible resource that I use regularly to find appropriate yarn substitutes.
The following yarns can be used in this pattern and will produce a lovely finished sweater:
Lion Brand Yarns:
- Lion Brand Coboo
- Lion Brand Truboo (really close match + incredible drape)
- Lion Brand LB Collection Merino Camel
- Lion Brand A Star Is Born: Oh Baby Organic (cotton option)
Knit Picks/WeCrochet Yarns:
- Knit Picks/WeCrochet Swish DK
- Knit Picks/WeCrochet Brava Sport
- Knit Picks/WeCrochet Wool of the Andes Sport
- Knit Picks/WeCrochet Shine Sport
- Knit Picks/WeCrochet Galileo
LoveCrafts Yarns:
- Premier Cotton Fair (close match – great cotton alternative)
- Scheepjes Stone Washed
- Cascade 220 Superwash Sport
- Cascade 220 Sport
- Rico Creative Sport DK
- See many more options here!
Other Yarns:
- Yarn Bee Must Be Merino
- Bernat Softee Baby Cotton
- Estelle Eco Tweed DK
- Hobbii Twister Solid
- Yarnart Melody
- Jo Sharp Alpaca Kid Lustre (very close match to Paragon)
- Gazzal RocknRoll
- Interlacements Toasty Toes
Tester Photos
There were 500+ pattern testers for this book because I wanted to ensure all sizes are satisfied with the pattern and fit! Below you can see photos from the testing process to see how the sweater looks on different bodies with different modifications made using a variety of yarns.
#ModernCrochetSweaters
#TimberLodgePullover
Thanks so much for reading!
You can find my full print book, Modern Crochet Sweaters: 20 Chic Designs For Everyday Wear on the shelves of all major retailers or see purchasing options here!
To shop this Timber Lodge Pullover crochet pattern, find it on Ravelry, Etsy, or my website!
Shop a great yarn alternative, Lion Brand Truboo, here.
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Janine
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