Sacred Woods – Crochet Pattern for Side-Split Sweater (from my book: Modern Crochet Sweaters)

Hi all!

This post includes everything you need to know about the Sacred Woods Sweater, a size-inclusive crochet pattern for a tunic-length sweater (long enough to wear with leggings!) with vertical stitching and a dramatic side-split.

The Sacred Woods Sweater is from my book Modern Crochet Sweaters: 20 Chic Designs for Everyday Wear. This book includes 20 size-inclusive sweater patterns using a variety of techniques and construction methods to ensure there is something of value for every skill level. Each pattern is written in 9 sizes from XS to 5XL and each size has been thoroughly tested! We had over 500+ crochet pattern testers for this book to make sure that each size fits its intended wearer in a way that makes them feel beautiful. You can buy this book with confidence, knowing that each pattern was written for you and your unique body measurements.

Before we begin, here are some quick links for you:

Find the PDF version on Ravelry here, on Etsy here, and on my website here.
- Add your finished project and view other completed projects on Ravelry here.
Use the pattern hashtag #SacredWoodsSweater on Instagram to show off your makes! Be sure to check out the book hashtag, #ModernCrochetSweaters, too!
Shop the recommended yarn, Lion Brand Wool-Ease, here! (Be sure to scroll down to see other great yarn substitutes!)
Shop my book on Amazon (US) here.
Shop my book on Amazon (CA) here.
Shop my book on other platforms outside of North America here.
Read about my experience getting a book deal here!
For any questions about this pattern, please email knitsnknotswpg@gmail.com and I’ll get back to you asap!

Order my book – Modern Crochet Sweaters: 20 Chic Designs for Everyday Wear – here!

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About Sacred Woods

Meet Sacred Woods, a moody pullover sweater featuring vertical stitching, a relaxed fit and elegant side slits. Vertical rows are used to mimic tall, slender trees found in a forest, encouraging the sweater to lay gracefully on your body. This sweater is worked in simple stitches with minimal shaping, meaning you’ll only need to refer to the pattern a couple times—perfect for distracted crocheting.

Long enough to wear with leggings, Sacred Woods is the ultimate grab-and-go piece. The dramatic side slits add dimension and movement while allowing more space in the hips for a great fit on both slim and curvy body types. Testers also noted that this is a great sweater to wear during pregnancy because it can easily accommodate a growing baby bump!

Getting Started: Knowing Your Measurements

This book uses the Craft Yarn Council (CYC) to determine sizing. The CYC is the industry standard when it comes to knit and crochet sizing. While you will be able to produce a beautiful sweater by following the written patterns, I also like to include customization tips throughout each pattern so that you can adjust based on your unique body measurements; for example, shortening or lengthening a sleeve, or adjusting for a larger upper arm than written for your size. This way, you can modify the pattern with confidence, if needed. When making garments for myself, I usually need to shorten tops or sweaters because I have a short torso. My hips also fall under a different size than my bust. Not everyone fits perfectly into these sizing standards; they are simply averages, not set-in-stone numbers.

Understanding how your body deviates from the CYC standard measurements gives you the ability to tailor a sweater to perfectly fit you, rather than feel disappointed that your body doesn’t fit into the sizing standards. I recommend that you measure the largest part of your bust and then refer to the CYC website (click here) to find out which size you would fall under. Then, look at the other measurements that are included for your size, and see which of these measurements deviate from your actual body measurements. Knowledge is power, and once you understand how your body deviates from the CYC standards, you will be able to anticipate this deviation and assume it translates through most patterns. For example, if your upper arm circumference is slightly larger than the CYC sizing chart reads, then you can expect you may have to ignore a few decrease rows when working the sleeves of your next sweater, or even follow the sleeve instructions for the next size up, if possible.

Getting Started: the Sacred Woods Side-Split Sweater

Yarn: Worsted—Lion Brand Wool-Ease Yarn in Umber

80% acrylic, 20% wool
197 yds [180 m] per 3-oz [85-g] ball
Find this yarn on lionbrand.com or visit yarnsub.com to find comparable substitutes.

Substitute Lion Brand Wool-Ease Yarn with any similar worsted weight, category #4 yarn that matches gauge. Most fibers should produce a beautiful sweater.

Yardage: 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) (8, 8, 9, 9) skeins or

1130 (1215, 1300, 1375, 1450) (1500, 1550, 1615, 1650) yds
[1033 (1111, 1189, 1257, 1326) (1372, 1417, 1477, 1509) m]

Hook: Size U.S. I/9 (5.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: Tapestry needle, 4 locking stitch markers, several more stitch markers to help with seaming (optional)

Gauge

Gauge: 4 x 4″ [10 x 10 cm] = 11.5 sts and 7.5 rows in double crochet

I wanted to include the gauge swatch instructions below so that you could practice swatching with your chosen yarn to ensure you have a yarn that will work with this pattern ahead of time. This way, you can see if you have something in your stash that will work before ordering new yarn.

For Swatch:

Ch 18.

Row 1: Dc in 3rd st from hook and in each st across, turn. [16 dc]

Row 2-15: Ch 2, dc in each st across, turn.

Block your swatch. Measure the inner 4″ [10 cm] of your blocked swatch to get the most accurate measurement.

Note on half stitches: When measuring your swatch, 4” [10 cm] should equal approximately 11.5 stitches and 7.5 rows.

Customization Ideas + Tips When Crocheting This Pullover

Tips

Sizing: This sweater is written in nine sizes as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). Make sure to follow the numbers for your size only.
Stitch Counts: Stitch counts are listed after each row/rnd. If no stitch count is given, there has been no change since the previous row/rnd. If only one number is provided, it applies to all sizes.
Reversible: There is no right side or wrong side. You choose which side to wear as the “right side.”
Seaming: When seaming your garment, make sure to keep all seams loose and do not pull tight in order to maintain some stretch, otherwise this seam will pucker during wear.
Turning Chain: The turning chain does not count as a stitch.
Body: The body of this sweater is worked in one piece. First, you will work a long rectangle, denoted as first side, then you will work a few shorter rows to create the back of the sweater. Next, you will work a similar section of shorter rows to become the front of the sweater. Last, you will work a joining row across the front and back sections to connect them, and then you will create the second side, identical to the first side. See Fig.1 in the pattern for a clear diagram of the order in which you will work the body of this sweater.
Blocking: Block the body of your sweater after working the bottom ribbing and before proceeding to work the sleeves. It’s much easier to block the ribbing like this, before seaming your sweater together.
Neckline: When working the neckline set-up round, work 1 single crochet into each regular stitch while working 2 single crochets for every double crochet row-end. This exact number of stitches you end up with here is not important.
Construction: The body of this sweater is worked sideways as a long rectangle with a head opening in the center. After the body is folded in half at the shoulders and the sides are seamed, the sleeves are worked directly onto the body in joined rounds for minimal seaming. There is no visible seam separating the sleeves from the body, creating a smooth, visually pleasing continuity in the fabric; maintaining the same sideways back-and-forth rows to create the look of one seamless piece of fabric from wrist-to-wrist.

Customization Ideas

To adjust the length of this sweater: Since this design is crocheted in vertical rows, you will establish the length right away with your beginning chain. For a longer or shorter sweater than the measurements provided in the sizing chart in the pattern, add or subtract stitches in multiples of two; one stitch assigned to the front and one to the back. For example, if you subtract a total of 20 stitches from your foundation row, 10 stitches will be eliminated from the front of your sweater and 10 stitches will be eliminated from the back of your sweater. So, when you work Section 2 and Section 3 (the Back and the Front), you will subtract 10 stitches from each of these counts and follow the rest of the pattern as written.
To adjust the size of the side-split: For more (or less) of a split, simply begin seaming higher (or lower) than instructed. Note that if you seam all the way to the bottom, you will need to make sure that your sweater circumference will accommodate the size of your hips.
- Check the measurement chart to find the measurement of the finished bust for the size you are making. If your hips measure wider than this, you may want to keep a bit of a side-split.
- If you have yet to begin your sweater and want it completely seamed without any side-split, choose a size with a finished bust measurement that will accommodate the circumference of your hips at the widest point.
To adjust the length of your sleeve: For longer or shorter sleeve than written for your size, simply add or subtract non-decrease rnds as you see fit. Work your sleeve until it measures 2” [5 cm] shorter than your desired length.
For tighter (looser) sleeves: If you need tighter or looser sleeves than written for your size, simply add (or eliminate) decrease rounds as you see fit! The exact round numbers are written out for you, but you can adjust these as desired. Keep track of any modifications you make to your first sleeve so that you can easily make the same modification to your second sleeve.
To adjust the length of your sleeve cuffs: For longer or shorter ribbing on your sleeve cuffs, work any chain length here. Just note that this will affect the total length of your sleeve, so you may want to adjust the number of sleeve rounds you have worked to accommodate for any cuff/ribbing adjustment.
Contrasting Colour: Try using a contrasting colour for the ribbing details for a two-tone look.

Yarn Substitutions

The yarn used in my sample is an 80% acrylic, 20% wool blend, however you are free to use any fiber content that you like for your own version! The only thing to keep in mind is that you will want to choose a fiber with some memory and bounce; and avoid fibers that will grow substantially after washing or blocking. Remember that Superwash yarn often grows with blocking, so just be aware of this fact. Testers still used Superwash yarns and their finished sweaters ended up looking and fitting perfectly, although growth over time is expected. Always swatch before beginning so you can be sure your chosen yarn creates a fabric you love! Listed below you will see a variety of yarns that will work just fine in place of Lion Brand Wool-Ease, so long as you match gauge!

Since Lion Brand Wool-Ease is not easily accessible in every country, visit www.yarnsub.com and type “Lion Brand Wool-Ease” into the search box to find a suitable alternative. You will find hundreds of yarns with similar properties and you are bound to find a brand that is accessible to you. The YarnSub website is an incredible resource that I use regularly to find appropriate yarn substitutes.

The following yarns can be used in this pattern and will produce a lovely finished sweater:

Lion Brand Yarns:

Knit Picks/WeCrochet Yarns:

Brava Worsted
Chroma Worsted
City Tweed
Comfy Color Mist (cotton)
Comfy Worsted (cotton)
Muse Hand Painted
Preciosa Tonal
Shine Worsted
Snuggle Puff
Swish Worsted
Wonderfluff (labelled as bulky, feels like worsted)
Wonderfluff Ombré
Woodland Tweed
Wool of the Andes Superwash
Wool of the Andes Tweed
Wool of the Andes Worsted

LoveCrafts Yarns (UK based; ships worldwide)

Berroco Vintage (55 colorways)
Caron One Pound
Cascade 220 Superwash Aran (25 colorways)
Malabrigo Worsted (59 colorways)
Plymouth Yarn Encore Worsted (62 colorways)
Red Heart Soft (25 colorways)
Red Heart With Love
plus so many more here!

Other Sources:

Pattern Tester Photos

There were 500+ pattern testers for this book because I wanted to ensure all sizes are satisfied with the pattern and fit! Below you can see photos from the testing process to see how the sweater looks on different bodies with different modifications made using a variety of yarns.