Rosebud Cardigan – Crochet Pattern for Textured Cardigan with Pockets and Waist-Tie (from my book: Modern Crochet Sweaters)

Hi all!

This post includes everything you need to know about the Rosebud Cardigan, a size-inclusive crochet pattern for a beautifully textured, worsted-weight cardigan with pockets and a waist-tie.

The Rosebud Cardigan is from my book Modern Crochet Sweaters: 20 Chic Designs for Everyday Wear. This book includes 20 size-inclusive sweater patterns using a variety of techniques and construction methods to ensure there is something of value for every skill level. Each pattern is written in 9 sizes from XS to 5XL and each size has been thoroughly tested! We had over 500+ crochet pattern testers for this book to make sure that each size fits its intended wearer in a way that makes them feel beautiful. You can buy this book with confidence, knowing that each pattern was written for you and your unique body measurements.

This is the sister pattern to my most popular design: the Rosebud Raglan – a pullover sweater using the same yarn and stitch pattern combination.

Before we begin, here are some quick links for you:

Find the PDF version on Ravelry here, on Etsy here, and on my website here.
- Add your finished project and view other completed projects on Ravelry here.
Check out the sister patterns:
- Rosebud Raglan, Rosebud Poncho, Chainette Turtleneck
Use the pattern hashtag #RosebudCardigan on Instagram to show off your makes! Be sure to check out the book hashtag, #ModernCrochetSweaters, too!
Shop Lion Brand Jeans here! (Be sure to scroll down to see other great yarn substitutes!)
Shop my book on Amazon (US) here.
Shop my book on Amazon (CA) here.
Shop my book on other platforms outside of North America here.
Read about my experience getting a book deal here!
Get a signed copy here!
For any questions about this pattern, please email knitsnknotswpg@gmail.com and I’ll get back to you asap!

Order my book – Modern Crochet Sweaters: 20 Chic Designs for Everyday Wear – here!

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About Rosebud Cardigan

The Rosebud Cardigan is a timeless layering piece that will never go out of fashion and is sure to complement any outfit. Designed for everyday wear, this cardigan features matching front pockets, an optional waist tie and short rows along the collar. For a breezy, casual look, wear it open and show off your outfit underneath. Fasten the waist tie for a cozy, fitted cardigan that will remain secure and hug your body, keeping you warm. The contrasting stitch pattern in the top few rows of the pockets provides a dynamic mix of textures without being distracting, unified by the monochromatic nature of this sweater. Pair with jeans and your favorite boots for a laid-back look.

Note: This cardigan is a variation on one of my all-time best-selling patterns, the Rosebud Raglan—a simple raglan pullover whose stitch pattern matches this cardigan. The original Rosebud Raglan crochet pattern can be found on most pattern-selling platforms. For more information and links, visit knitsnknots.ca/rosebud-raglan

Getting Started: Knowing Your Measurements

This book uses the Craft Yarn Council (CYC) to determine sizing. The CYC is the industry standard when it comes to knit and crochet sizing. While you will be able to produce a beautiful sweater by following the written patterns, I also like to include customization tips throughout each pattern so that you can adjust based on your unique body measurements; for example, shortening or lengthening a sleeve, or adjusting for a larger upper arm than written for your size. This way, you can modify the pattern with confidence, if needed. When making garments for myself, I usually need to shorten tops or sweaters because I have a short torso. My hips also fall under a different size than my bust. Not everyone fits perfectly into these sizing standards; they are simply averages, not set-in-stone numbers.

Understanding how your body deviates from the CYC standard measurements gives you the ability to tailor a sweater to perfectly fit you, rather than feel disappointed that your body doesn’t fit into the sizing standards. I recommend that you measure the largest part of your bust and then refer to the CYC website (click here) to find out which size you would fall under. Then, look at the other measurements that are included for your size, and see which of these measurements deviate from your actual body measurements. Knowledge is power, and once you understand how your body deviates from the CYC standards, you will be able to anticipate this deviation and assume it translates through most patterns. For example, if your upper arm circumference is slightly larger than the CYC sizing chart reads, then you can expect you may have to ignore a few decrease rows when working the sleeves of your next sweater, or even follow the sleeve instructions for the next size up, if possible.

Getting Started: the Rosebud Cardigan

Yarn: Worsted—Lion Brand Jeans in Top Stitch

100% acrylic
246 yds [225 m] per 3.5-oz [100-g] skein
Find this yarn on lionbrand.com or visit yarnsub.com to find comparable substitutes.

Substitute Lion Brand Jeans with any worsted weight, category #4 yarn that matches gauge. Any fiber should work out fine, you don’t necessarily have to stick with an acrylic yarn. Jeans is one of my favorite budget-friendly yarns because it has a softness that can be hard to find in acrylics within this price range.

Some other great substitutions include (affiliate links): Caron Simply Soft, Lion Brand Wool-Ease, Lion Brand Heartland, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice, Loops & Threads Impeccable, Patons Canadiana, Scheepjes Colour Crafter, WeCrochet Brava Worsted, WeCrochet Wool of the Andes Worsted

Yardage: 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) (8, 9, 9, 9) skeins of Lion Brand Jeans, or

1350 (1425, 1550, 1675, 1800) (1850, 1975, 2050, 2150) yds
1235 (1304, 1418, 1532, 1646) (1692, 1806, 1875, 1966) m

Hook: Size U.S. I/9 (5.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: Tapestry needle, several locking stitch markers, buttons (optional)

Gauge

Gauge: 4 x 4″ [10 x 10 cm] = 12 sts and 12 rows in stitch pattern (see instructions below)

I wanted to include the gauge swatch instructions below so that you could practice swatching with your chosen yarn to ensure you have a yarn that will work with this pattern ahead of time. This way, you can see if you have something in your stash that will work before ordering new yarn.

Ch 15.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, *sc in next ch, dc in next ch; rep from * to end of row, turn. [14 sts]

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first dc, dc in next sc, *sc in next dc, dc in next sc; rep from * to end of row, turn.

Rep Row 2 until you have at least 15 rows worked.

Block your swatch. Measure the inner 4″ [10 cm] of your blocked swatch to get the most accurate measurement.

Customization Ideas + Tips When Crocheting This Cardigan

Tips

Sizing: This sweater is written in nine sizes as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). Make sure to follow the numbers for your size only. All sizing info can be found in the book or on Page 5 of the PDF pattern.
Stitch Counts: Stitch counts are listed after each row/rnd. If no stitch count is given, there has been no change since the previous row/rnd. If only one number is provided, it applies to all sizes.
Reversible: There is no right side or wrong side; both sides are identical. You choose which side to wear as the “right side.”
Seaming: When seaming your garment, make sure to keep all seams relatively loose without pulling too tight in order to maintain some stretch, otherwise this seam will pucker during wear. You don’t want your seams to be significantly tighter than the rest of your fabric.
Turning Chain: The turning chain does not count as a stitch.
Stitch Pattern: This stitch pattern uses alternating single crochets and double crochets. When instructed to “cont in patt” (continue in pattern), you will always work each stitch into the opposite stitch: You will single crochet into each double crochet, and similarly, you will double crochet into each single crochet. At no point should you ever place a single crochet into a single crochet, or a double crochet into a double crochet. If you ever find yourself in this situation, you have made a mistake; rip back to the last point in which you were working the correct stitch pattern.
- Tips when decreasing the sleeves: The first stitch of your row will alternate between a sc and a dc each time you decrease. Sometimes your first stitch will be a sc, sometimes your first stitch will be a dc.
Front Panels: The Second Front Panel has one more row than the First Front Panel so that the tail is left in the correct position to seam the side of the cardigan. You won’t notice this difference in the final piece, but if it bothers you to have this discrepancy of one row, you can work them both to the same length and use scrap yarn to seam the side. I just prefer to have as few ends to sew in as possible and find that it usually looks neater this way.
Tip for crocheting the sleeves: After Row 1, you can seam the sides of your cardigan with a tapestry needle using the whip stitch (or seaming method of your choice) to make it easier to work the rest of the sleeves if you prefer.
Join + Turn the Sleeves: Remember the sleeves are worked in joined, turned rounds. Turn your work after completing each round to begin crocheting in the opposite direction.
Sewing Pockets to your Cardigan: When sewing pockets onto a cardigan, my preferred method is to insert the needle from top-to-bottom through the pocket and front panel of cardigan with the right side facing. Then, insert the needle from bottom-to-top, sewing through both layers. Rep this method all around the perimeter of the pocket, then fasten off and weave in ends once completed. See the back of the book for pocket-sewing tips!
Construction: The body of this cardigan is worked all in one piece, starting with the back panel, then splitting for two front panels that get folded over onto the back. The sleeves are worked directly onto the body in joined rounds, with tapered sleeves. The collar, pockets and waist tie are added last.

Customization Ideas

To adjust the length: For a longer (or shorter) cardigan, work additional (or fewer) row repeats until the back panel measures your desired length. Note that additional length will require more yarn than is listed for your size in the Materials section.
- If you modify the length of the back panel, make sure to work the same modification to each of the front panels.
  - ie. If you work 15 additional rows to the back panel, be sure to work 15 additional rows to the front panels.
Follow any sleeve size: If you think the measurements of a different size would better suit your arm measurements, you can follow the instructions for any sleeve size; you don’t necessarily have to stick with the same size you have been working up to this point if you think another size will give you a better fit. See the Upper Arm circumference column in the sizing chart for all sleeve sizes.
For tighter (or looser) sleeves: Simply add (or omit) decrease rounds as you see fit. Work these rounds as regular rounds in your usual stitch pattern.
To adjust the sleeve length: For longer (or shorter) sleeves than measurements provided in the sizing chart on page 5, simply add or omit non-decrease rounds as you see fit. In other words, if you eliminate any rounds, eliminate the regular straight rounds, and not the decrease rounds.
To add buttons to this cardigan: You can easily add buttons to this cardigan by placing stitch markers on the collar edge to mark out where you would like the buttons to be. I recommend working buttonholes on the fourth or fifth row so that a symmetrical number of rows exist before and after the buttonhole row. To create the buttonholes on one side of your sweater, follow the collar instructions as written, but skip over 1 to 3 stitches every time you approach a new stitch marker, and ch 1 to 3, depending on how many sts you skipped. (The size of these buttonholes depends on the size of the buttons you use.) On the following row, sc into each st and each ch, then continue the remainder of the pattern as written. Once the collar is completed, sew buttons in place on the opposite side of your sweater to line up with each buttonhole.
For a wider collar: Simply follow the collar instructions as-written, then repeat the last row of the collar until achieving your desired collar width.
To prevent your pocket from stretching: To prevent your pockets from stretching out and losing their shape, you can sew a thin elastic to the inside of the top-edge of the pocket that measures slightly shorter than the width of your pocket. If you are not comfortable with sewing, you can also use a fabric glue to give similar results.
Optional Waist Tie and Belt Loops:
Row 1: FSC 138 (150, 162, 174, 186) (198, 210, 222, 234) or until reaching your desired waist tie length. Using these numbers will create a tie that measures 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) (66, 70, 74, 78)” [117 (127, 137, 147, 157) (168, 178, 188, 198) cm] in length.
- Row 2–8: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off.
- Customization Tip: To add belt loops, leave a 6-inch [15-cm] tail, make a ch that measures slightly wider than your tie, work a few rows of sc across your ch, fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching to cardigan. Attach the belt loop at your desired placement using the remaining tails, weave in ends. Rep as many times as desired.

Yarn Substitutions

The yarn used in my sample (Lion Brand Jeans) is an inexpensive, 100% acrylic yarn, however you are free to use any fiber content that you like for your own cardigan! Listed below you will see a variety of yarns that will work just fine in place of Jeans, so long as you match gauge! Substitute Jeans with any worsted weight, medium category #4 yarn.

Jeans is one of my favorite budget-friendly yarns because it has a softness that can be hard to find in acrylics within this price range.

Since Jeans may not be easily accessible in every country, visit www.yarnsub.com and type “Lion Brand Jeans” in the search box to find a suitable alternative. You will find hundreds of yarns with similar properties and you are bound to find a brand that is accessible to you. The YarnSub website is an incredible resource that I use regularly to find appropriate yarn substitutes.

The following yarns can be used in this pattern and will produce a lovely finished cardigan:

Lion Brand Yarns:

Knit Picks/WeCrochet Yarns:

Brava Worsted
Chroma Worsted
City Tweed
Comfy Color Mist (cotton)
Comfy Worsted (cotton)
Muse Hand Painted
Preciosa Tonal
Shine Worsted
Snuggle Puff
Swish Worsted
Wonderfluff (labelled as bulky, feels like worsted)
Wonderfluff Ombré
Woodland Tweed
Wool of the Andes Superwash
Wool of the Andes Tweed
Wool of the Andes Worsted

LoveCrafts Yarns (UK based; ships worldwide)

Berroco Vintage (55 colourways)
Caron One Pound
Cascade 220 (111 colourways)
Cascade 220 Superwash Aran (25 colourways)
Cascade Pacific Worsted
Malabrigo Worsted (59 colourways)
Plymouth Yarn Encore Worsted (62 colourways)
Red Heart Comfort
Red Heart Soft (25 colourways)
Red Heart With Love
Scheepjes Colour Crafter (38 colourways)
plus so many more here!

Other Sources:

Pattern Tester Photos

There were 500+ pattern testers for this book because I wanted to ensure all sizes are satisfied with the pattern and fit! Below you can see photos from the testing process to see how the sweater looks on different bodies with different modifications made using a variety of yarns.