Fifty Below – Crochet Pattern for Textured Color-Block Sweater (from my book: Modern Crochet Sweaters)

Hi all!

This post includes everything you need to know about the Fifty Below Color Block Pullover, a size-inclusive crochet pattern for a adorably chunky sweater featuring two-tone color blocking and a whimsical texture throughout.

The Fifty Below Color Block Pullover is from my book Modern Crochet Sweaters: 20 Chic Designs for Everyday Wear. This book includes 20 size-inclusive sweater patterns using a variety of techniques and construction methods to ensure there is something of value for every skill level. Each pattern is written in 9 sizes from XS to 5XL and each size has been thoroughly tested! We had over 500+ crochet pattern testers for this book to make sure that each size fits its intended wearer in a way that makes them feel beautiful. You can buy this book with confidence, knowing that each pattern was written for you and your unique body measurements.

Before we begin, here are some quick links for you:

Find the PDF version on Ravelry here, on Etsy here, and on my website here.
Add your finished project and view other completed projects on Ravelry here.
Use the pattern hashtag #FiftyBelowPullover on Instagram to show off your makes! Be sure to check out the book hashtag, #ModernCrochetSweaters, too!
Shop Alpachino Merino from Wool And The Gang here!
- Be sure to scroll down to see other great yarn substitutes!
Shop my book on Amazon (US) here.
Shop my book on Amazon (CA) here.
Shop my book on other platforms outside of North America here.
Read about my experience getting a book deal here!
For any questions about this pattern, please email knitsnknotswpg@gmail.com and I’ll get back to you asap!

Order my book – Modern Crochet Sweaters: 20 Chic Designs for Everyday Wear – here!

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About Fifty Below

The Fifty Below Color Block Pullover is a cute, chunky sweater designed to be a part of all your winter adventures. Playfully plush and oh-so-cozy, this sweater is intended to stand out like a painting against the glistening white canvas of a snowy mountain. Inspired by the playful boldness of winter ski outfits that never hold back on color or style, this adorably unpretentious sweater is chock full of character from its quirky texture to the cheerful color blocking. The whimsical two-tone effect provides you with an opportunity to get creative and design your own color pattern. If ever there was a time to go crazy with color, it’s right now, with this sweater. Fifty Below begs to be worn on your next snowy outing, and pairs best with ice skates or ski poles.

Getting Started: the Fifty Below Color Block Pullover

Yarn: This sweater uses 2 colourways of Wool And The Gang Alpachino Merino. This yarn is on the pricey side, so I’ve included an extensive list of yarn alternatives that you can use in place of Alpachino Merino and still get a beautiful sweater. Since this sweater uses 2 different colors, I’ll include the yardage below for a two-tone version as well as a solid-color version! This way, you can make whichever version you want and ensure you have ordered the correct yardage for your desired look.

Alpachino Merino details:

Bulky weight—Sample uses Wool and the Gang Alpachino Merino in Chestnut Brown (Color A-bottom) and Sahara Dust (Color B-top)
60% Merino, 40% baby alpaca
110 yds [100 m] per 3.5-oz [100-g] ball
Find this yarn on woolandthegang.com, LoveCrafts.com, or visit yarnsub.com to find comparable substitutes.

For sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) you’ll need:

Yardage (2-tone):
Color A (Bottom Color): 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) (7, 7, 7, 8) balls of Alpachino Merino, or

400 (450, 500, 550, 575) (675, 725, 750, 825) yds
[366 (412, 458, 503, 526) (618, 663, 686, 755) m]

Color B (Top Color): 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) of Alpachino Merino, or

375 (400, 425, 475, 525) (575, 650, 700, 750) yds
[343 (366, 389, 435, 481) (526, 595, 641, 686) m]

Yardage (solid color):
8 (8, 9, 10, 10) (12, 13, 14, 15) balls of Alpachino Merino, or

775 (850, 925, 1025, 1100) (1250, 1375, 1450, 1575) yds
[709 (778, 846, 938, 1006) (1143, 1258, 1326, 1441) m]

Hook: You’ll need a size U.S. K/10½ (6.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: Tapestry needle, several locking stitch markers

Gauge

4 x 4″ [10 x 10 cm] = 11.5 sts and 11 rows in granite stitch; where each sc counts as a stitch and each ch counts as a stitch (see instructions below)

I wanted to include the gauge swatch instructions below so that you could practice swatching with your chosen yarn to ensure you have a yarn that will work with this pattern ahead of time. This way, you can see if you have something in your stash that will work before ordering new yarn.

For Swatch:

Ch 15.

Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook (note: skipped chs create 1 ch-sp), *ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch; rep from * to end of row, turn. [8 sc; 7 ch]

Row 2: Ch 2, sc in first ch-sp, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-sp; rep from * to end of row, turn.

Rep Row 2 until you have at least 14 rows worked.

Block your swatch. Measure the inner 4″ [10 cm] of your blocked swatch to get the most accurate measurement.

Note: The granite stitch has many names; it is often referred to as the linen stitch, seed stitch, mesh stitch, or moss stitch, to name a few.

Getting Started: Knowing Your Measurements

This book uses the Craft Yarn Council (CYC) to determine sizing. The CYC is the industry standard when it comes to knit and crochet sizing. While you will be able to produce a beautiful sweater by following the written patterns, I also like to include customization tips throughout each pattern so that you can adjust based on your unique body measurements. For example, shortening or lengthening a sleeve, or adjusting for a larger upper arm than written for your size. This way, you can modify the pattern with confidence, if needed. For me personally, I usually need to shorten garments because I have a short torso. My hips also fall under a different size than my bust – not everyone fits perfectly into these sizing standards; they are simply averages, not set-in-stone numbers.

Understanding how your body deviates from the CYC standard measurements gives you the ability to tailor a sweater to perfectly fit you, rather than feel disappointed that your body doesn’t fit into the sizing standards. I recommend that you measure the largest part of your bust and then refer to the CYC website (click here) to find out which size you would fall under. Then, look at the other measurements that are included for your size, and see which of these measurements deviate from your actual body measurements. Knowledge is power, and once you understand how your body deviates from the CYC standards, you will be able to anticipate this deviation and assume it translates through most patterns. For example, if your upper arm circumference is slightly larger than the CYC sizing chart reads, then you can expect you may have to ignore a few decrease rows when working the sleeves of your next sweater, or even follow the sleeve instructions for the next size up, if possible.

Customization Ideas + Tips When Crocheting This Sweater

Tips

Sizing: This sweater is written in nine sizes as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). Make sure to follow the numbers for your size only.
Stitch Counts: Stitch counts are listed after each row. If no stitch count is given, there has been no change since the previous row. If only one number is provided, it applies to all sizes.
Reversible: There is no right side or wrong side. You choose which side to wear as the “right side.”
Seaming: When seaming your garment, make sure to keep all seams loose and do not pull tight in order to maintain some stretch, otherwise this seam will pucker during wear.
Turning Chain: The turning chain for the granite stitch, the main stitch pattern (everything but the ribbing), counts as 1 sc + 1 ch and is included in the final stitch counts of each row.
Changing Colors Seamlessly: When working the last stitch of an old color, work the stitch as usual, but use the new color to do your final yarn over and pull through to close the stitch. Then, you may cut the old color and continue stitching with the new color.
Construction: This pullover is worked in four pieces: a front panel, a back panel, and two sleeves. The front and back body panels are worked first and are partially seamed together along the shoulders and the sides, leaving openings for the sleeves to be attached. Next, the sleeves are worked flat from the wrist upward and are seamed closed before being attached to the body of the sweater. This pullover lands around the mid-hip, but instructions are included to easily make any length.
If you choose to do any research using this stitch name, note that the granite stitch has many names; it is often referred to as the linen stitch, seed stitch, mesh stitch, or moss stitch, to name a few.

Customization Ideas

To change the length of your sweater: With Color A, work the Front Panel Bottom Ribbing as written, then move on the Body section. Work Rows 1, 2, and 3. You will be instructed to repeat Row 3 and the pattern will specify when to change to Color B. For a longer (or shorter) sweater than measurements provided in the book (or the chart on page 5 of the PDF pattern), add (or eliminate) rows as you see fit. To keep the color-blocking proportions consistent, you may want to add (or eliminate) rows in a multiple of two; one row for each of Color A and Color B. Note that additional length requires additional yardage than listed in the Materials section.
- You will want to work your adjustment before beginning the neckline.
- If you adjust the length of your Front Panel, make the same adjustment to your Back Panel.
For a Deeper Neckline: Work the neckline as it’s written, but continue to repeat Row 4 until reaching your desired depth. Make note of how many additional rows you worked on this Front Panel – Side 1 and make the same adjustment to Side 2 and to your Back Panel.
Follow Any Sleeve Size: If you think the sleeve measurements of a different size would better suit your arm measurements, you can follow the instructions for any sleeve size; you don’t necessarily have to stick with the same size you have been working up to this point if you think another size will give you a better fit.
If you adjusted your length and want to ensure you have enough yarn to complete the color blocking on both sleeves: If you have altered the specified rows of color blocking to create your own color blocking pattern or you want to ensure you have enough of Color A to complete both sleeves, take your remaining yarn of Color A and divide it evenly in half; one part for each sleeve. This way, you can get the most out of your yarn without running out on your second sleeve, and maybe even use up all of Color A without leaving any scraps.
Adjusting Sleeve Tightness + Length: For tighter (or looser) sleeves, work fewer (or additional) increase rounds than instructed for your size. For longer (or shorter) sleeve, work additional (fewer) non-increase rounds wherever you see fit. Make note of any modifications so that you can create a second identical sleeve.

Yarn Substitutions

Alpachino Merino is a luxurious yarn with a price tag to match. While it is a beautiful fiber to work with, there are many other yarns that can work well in its place. Substitute Alpachino Merino with any other category #5, bulky-weight yarn that matches gauge, however keep in mind that one of the reasons this yarn works so well in this sweater without feeling too heavy or dense is because it’s composed of two slinky fibers—Merino wool and baby alpaca—that are gently twisted to create a fluffy, airy yarn. I would recommend a bulky yarn on the lighter side or even an aran/heavy worsted weight yarn, since this would be similar to the blown, airy feeling of Alpachino Merino. Chainette-style yarns or airy, blown yarns will produce a really nice lightweight sweater that doesn’t feel heavy. These yarns are noted below.

Multiple testers used Lion Brand Hue and Me and it produced a pretty sweater, but a few of them said it was a little on the heavier side since the fiber make-up is different and Hue and Me isn’t as lightweight as Alpachino Merino. It will still work, I just wanted to let you know! You can also try matching gauge with a worsted weight yarn for a less bulky sweater. You can see the photos below and make up your own mind!

Since Alpachino Merino may not be easily accessible in every country, visit www.yarnsub.com and type “Wool And The Gang Alpachino Merino” in the search box to find a suitable alternative. You will find hundreds of yarns with similar properties and you are bound to find a brand that is accessible to you. The YarnSub website is an incredible resource that I use regularly to find appropriate yarn substitutes.

The following yarns can be used in this pattern and will produce a lovely finished sweater:

Knit Picks/WeCrochet Yarns:

Biggo (feels almost identical)
City Tweed (feels almost identical)
Snugglepuff
City Tweed Aran
Wonderfluff (this would produce a really lightweight sweater)
Provincial Tweed
Swish Bulky
Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky

Lion Brand Yarns:

Lion Brand LB Collection Chainette (this would produce a really lightweight sweater)
Lion Brand Hue And Me (a little bulkier than the recommended yarn, but still works!)
Lion Brand Scarfie
Lion Brand Heartland
Lion Brand Woolspun

LoveCrafts Yarns:

Other Yarns:

The Hook Nook Yummy (feels almost identical)
Loops & Threads Cozy Wool (Micheals Brand – slightly thicker than Alpachino Merino)
Loops & Threads Charisma (Michaels Brand) – a great sub
Patons Shetland
Patons Norse
Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek Low Pill Fiber (Hobby Lobby brand)
Yarn Bee Tender
Bernat Wavelength
Big Twist Classic (JoAnn brand)
Big Twist Natural Blend (JoAnn brand)
Hobbii Divina (really lightweight – would work nicely)